NYC Neighborhoods: Washington Heights

Previously on NYC Neighborhoods, two Manhattanites ventured on the 7 train to Flushing, Queens.

On today’s episode, Faith and Bryley navigated subway and bus detours to make their way to Washington Heights.

Now, you must be wondering, Faith, isn’t this series supposed to get you out of Manhattan…and the answer isn’t no or yes. It’s supposed to get us to other boroughs, and despite the vicinity of Washington Heights, Bryley and I are homebodies who mostly watch TV, bake, and go to the theatre together. While neither of us has any complaints about this (or any, I am letting Bryley voice on my blog), we’ve decided that we should explore the parts of New York our parents haven’t taught us to appreciate. Since both Bryley’s grandfather, Karl, and my grandmother, Abby, have lived in the Heights, we decided to go explore our familial history, and to say the least, they lived in a delicious neighborhood. 

For many in the outer boroughs or below 96 street, getting to Washington Heights may seem like a trek, but respectively coming from Morningside Heights and Spanish Harlem, the journey seemed easy.

Days prior, we planned our route, I would scooter to Bryley, who lives off the 1, and together we would venture north. But the MTA had other plans. With the 1 train not running, Bryley took the M5 up Broadway, at a snail's pace (it remains her favorite bus route, though). My route, M116 - C train - A train, was not without inconvenience as Park Avenue was closed to traffic. And a 35 minute journey took 50. 

Despite my longer journey, I beat Bryley to our first stop: El Floridita. Surrounded by Dominican plates, I sat in the corner, emotionally exhausted from relying on the MTA and hangry. As soon as Bryley arrived, I ordered a chicken empanada and un pan con lechón y cebolla (pork and onions, $8.17) in Spanish. Unfortunately, they were out of empanadas, so we took our sandwich to go and walked south a block to the famed El Malecón. Here we ordered half a rotisserie chicken to go ($9.50), because what else do you get at Malecón?!

We walked down to a nearby park and indulged in the neighborhood’s finest Dominican food. As Bryley carefully unwrapped the sandwich, I tore off the plastic lid of the to-go box and pulled apart the tender chicken and the slightly crisp skin. That first bite was juicy and flavorful…and I’m hungry again just thinking about it. 

During trips to Mexico, long and short car rides were accompanied by the Duggan-Cabreras pulling apart two chain restaurant rotisserie chickens in our rental. As a connoisseur of eating picnic-rotisseries, I had no problem stuffing my face. Bryley, on the other hand, wasn’t raised by heathen; she proclaimed, “It’s okay,” after her first bite. I then suggested Bryley take a bite with skin or seasoning or both, as she had taken a piece with neither. After taking a bite with skin and seasoning, she agreed with my assessment. Bryley’s PSA: (white (Faith’s edit)) people should take bites with seasoning. Bryley’s Belief ranked it an 8.5, while I gave it an astounding 8.9.

Bryley got the first bite of the pork and pickled onion sandwich and was reminded why she loved Dominican food. My first thought was, “Wow, I could make this at home. But then I’d have to beg Odette for weeks to make the pernil. Then it would take two days to marinate and cook…this is definitely faster.” After my inner monologue was voiced and shared, I indulged in one or two more bites, semi-craving a side of pernil jus to dip my sandwich. Together, we only finished half the nearly foot-long sandwich, having to save room for other treats. While I’d come here again, Odette should start microwaving red onions in the microwave, because come this fall, I will be making this sandwich with pernil. I rank it a solid 7.5, with Bryley giving it another 8.5.

Next on the list was Elsa Reina del Chicharron, but due to a long but worthy gabbing session, we decided to skip them. I hope to return soon as I was slightly heartbroken. In the itinerary notes I wrote: “¡Fe quiere los CHICHARRÓNES! (that was my first time writing  in the third person in Spanish.)” 

Despite already filling up, we stopped by New San Francisco to get some empanadas. Having worked at Kids Passport To Adventure two blocks away, founder Crystal Williams would feed the kiddos and counselors with their warm empanadas. But in all honesty, these were not up to their past prowess. For $2 these big empanadas were barely filled with shredded chicken, which was over-spiced with adobo, making it salty. That being said, the fried dough was fluffy and delicious. I give it a 6.5, knowing they can be a 7.5 on a good day, Bryley Beliefs gives them 6.

We couldn’t end the food tour on a mediocre note, so we ventured out to the Colombian bakery Salento and perused their bready and sweet offerings. Overwhelmed by the options, Bryley asked the waiter for a recommendation; without skipping a beat, he blurted out, “The pandebono!” So, Bryley ordered the classic and one filled with a sweet guava jam. For those who have never tasted pandebono, it is a traditional Colombian cheese bread. Weeks after indulging in this delightful treat, I realized that it is the Colombian equivalent of the Brazilian cheese bread Kepfram makes at weekly summer BBQs at the Duggans’. Unknowingly familiar to both Bryley and me, we inhaled our little cheesy breads. I preferred the pandebono without guava, as the filling was too sweet for me. Bryley and her sweet tooth had no problem engulfing the guava-cheesy bread. As summer barbecues approach, I will be putting in orders at Kepfram’s for delivery. But when fall and winter return, I will be heading back to Salento…or maybe Bryley and I will make it at home. I rank it a 8, Bryley says it’s a 7.5.

Stuffed to the gills, and having walked south from 177th and Broadway to 156th to take a gander at the Hispanic Society of America…to be mentally fulfilled and to retrace the steps of our ancestors, more specifically Bryley’s relatives. No shade to my hysterical and loving Abby, she was raised to be a snobby, prejudiced Dominican by her Abuelita Nunez. So when she was living in the hood in the1960s, she never once stepped foot in the Hispanic Society of America. However, Bryley’s grandfather Karl would go to the museum on Yom Kippur, having snuck out of all-day-long services with his older brother to let out his inner Karlito at the Hispanic Society of America. With free tickets Thursday through Sunday, all exploring Washington Heights should immerse themselves in the arts as well as the food they are indulging in. As a small museum, plan about 45 minutes to explore.

We continued to walk south, stopping along the way for juicy strawberries, 10 pounds of potatoes (say your dad’s British without saying he’s British), and 50 cent plantains, until diverging at 145th. Bryley conveniently hopped on the M5; I continued schlepping to Lenox where I learned that the M1 and the M102 end/start at the same place.

Everyone, especially those who would feel up shit’s creek, as they’ve never been north of 96 street,

well you must take the A Train 

even farther than Harlem to northern Manhattan, and maintain

Get off at 181st and get take the escalator

I’m sorry…but a whole article about Washington Heights, and eating in the Heights, I had to make an In the Heights joke. I’m a theatre kid! 

But if it is true, if you are this person who never ventures north of 96 street, head north and explore this land rich in culture and flavor…just don’t move there and gentrify the neighborhood!